Using Hypertufa to Contain Dwarf Conifer
Pinus parviflora 'Hagoromo' (Japanese White Pine) Zone 5 - blue-green, twisted needles decorate the branches of this dense, slow-growing form of Japanese White Pine
All too often container gardens
include tall spindly plants surrounded by colorful annuals planted in a faded
plastic container. As the season comes to an end, the plants,
are sadly redirected to the compost bin, one season and gone.
After attending my first National ACS conference
in Oregon a
few years ago, my idea of only using one season annuals in containers changed. Our
tour visited several beautiful display gardens where I saw hypertufa stone like
containers packed with small conifers. I
realized then that there was a new
definition for container gardens. Hypertufa
containers planted with colorful conifers and alpine plants in natural looking
scenes. There
was a new reason to buy conifers.
Conifer planted in a hypertufa trough - located in the Iseli Nursery display garden, Oregon
Carnivorous plants on display at
the NY Botanical Gardens
The proverbial seed was planted. It did
not take long for my Pennsylvania
garden to include conifer containers of all shapes and sizes. My goal was to create and grow what I saw in Oregon. Hypertufa
containers seemed to take over my garden. Conifers were the accent plants,
and small alpines were the fillers and herbs were the spillers. I experimented with different plants,
different soils, different locations. And after many mistake this is
what I found to work best in my garden.
Hypertufa
Hypertufa allows you to be creative, childlike
, and artistic all while making your own
container. Even mistakes look good. ( see picture) Instructions on how to make hypertufa
containers can be found on the internet, and garden magazines, however the most complete source of information was in the book Creating and Planting Garden
Troughs – Joyce Fingerrut and Rex
Murfitt .
There
are many ways to make Hypertufa pots,
my formula starts with equal
parts of Portland Cement, Peat Moss, and Perlite, then add water to form a damp but not wet mixture. Apply the mix about 1 ½ ” thick to
the inside or outside of a mold, usually
a large plastic container.
After a day gently
remove the slightly hardened hypertufa from the mold.
Wire brush the pot to
create a textured finish. Return the container
to a plastic bag to keep it moist, slowly allowing it to cure for 1-2 weeks. As it cures, the mix will become stronger. After
making dozens of containers, and lots of mistakes I have found that trial and
error is the best teacher. And if you don’t like gray, liquid or powdered
cement color can be added to the wet mix to make an even more interesting
design. Once properly cured, these
containers can remain intact outside for several years.
If you are interested in taking a class on how to make Hypertufa go to ---- Ashcombe Farm and Greenhouse - Events- http://www.ashcombe.com/2013hypertufa.htm




